It is Velveeta!

Put the pill inside a piece of Velveeta. They love it so much,and Velvetta is so sticky, they can’t separate the cheese from the pill! Works wonders.

But you have to still be creative. Sometimes they get wise to the Velveeta. So mix it up. Give them a few pieces, then the piece with the pill, the follow up with a few pieces. Also, you might want to sometimes just give them a piece or two as random treats. This helps them not associate the Velveeta with the pill, they think it is just a random strange piece.

We use this technque on all our dogs, and when they see the Velveeta box they all think TREATS!

Do you have a trick to help your dog take its medication?

(Click on the photo to enlarge so you can see my happy face!)

I love to follow my big sister Eva around.  Below we are running at Dolly Sods, part of the Monongahela National Forest.

See the Joy!

We stop to get water along the way.

Before my Human lets me off lead, she likes to review basic commands.

(She needs to loosen up that leash a little bit to make sure there is a J.  Training Humans takes time, sigh.)

All this running around leaves me pretty tired.  I am already not a morning pup.  See how sleepy I look.  So tired.  Don’t worry I was able to get right up after my morning cup of joe (ok, it was water and a bathroom break).

I know I know I am a small pup.  I will tell you that I was running long after my big sister Eva tired out.  My size does mean my Human has to take certain precautions.  And the good news is that if I get tired, I am pretty easy to pick up and carry.

Things to consider before hiking or running with your dog:
1. Size and coat of dog. A really small dog, like myself, or a really big dog might not make the best running companion. A long haired coat might not be good in the middle of the summer.
2. Physical abilities such as injuries, and energy level.
3. Physical endurance. You don’t want to take an out of shape dog on a 5 mile run, start slow and build endurance and ability. This will also help you figure out if your dog has limitations.
4. The personality of your dog such as energy level, ability to be off lead or run next to you on lead with out cutting in front of you, and reaction to new situations.

After taking into consideration the above points, create the length and difficulty of the hike or run based on your dogs abilities and personality.

When hiking and running keep your eye out for glass and other items that might injury our paws. One of the most common injuries happens to your dogs pads. Try our Doggie Sage Hot Dog Balm on our pads before you go out and when you return to soften and heal those paws.

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Want to read and learn more about running with your dog? Check out the following links:
Train with Your Dog
Running and Jogging with Your Dog
Running with Your Best Friend

A few weeks ago, on my own, I got my paws wet. But once it got to my belly, I just did not get the point.

However, my big sister Eva LOVES to swim! As soon as she sees water she dives right in.

You can see her paddling around in the background behind Oliver in the picture below.

The James River is Beautiful.

Do you have a dog that wants to learn how to swim?  Below are a few tips to help your dog swim.

Dogs already know how to swim, we just have to get them to realize this without pushing them, or making them scared of the water.

1.  If you aren’t in the water more than likely your dog will not be going in either.   Get in the water and play around.

2.  Start in wading waters while letting the dog get used to having their feet and belly wet.  Slowly move into deeper waters.

3.  Use lures, such as a toy or food, to help a dog that isn’t sure become more comfortable and confident.

4.  Peer Pressure. Bring other dogs along that are already know how to swim, and who are happy and comfortable with the water.

5. Think safety first.  Make sure you are in an area that is safe and secure.  Teaching your dog to swim in fast moving river water might not be safe for a first time swimmer.  Consider the size and build of your dog when deciding on where to swim.

6. Stay Positive!  Do not punish your dog if they are unwilling to get in the water.  The more positive you are, and the more fun you are having, the more likely your dog will be willing to make the choice to take the plunge and start paddling.

7. Make sure your dog is making the choice to get in the water.  If you throw your dog in the waters most likely your dog will not want to go back in on their own.

Post a comment to share your favorite place to swim with your dog, how you taught your dog to swim, or any other fun dog swimming story.

In order to graduate, I had to work pretty darn hard and learn a whole lot of self control.

My Human chose Dog Lovers Obedience School because it was not food based.  She had experience with food and clicker training and due to my size thought it might be best to learn a new method.  When picking a training class, find out about the method of teaching and if that is going to be a good match with your dog’s personality and the human’s personality.  If you are uncertain ask if you can sit in on a class without your dog.

Before training or bringing a dog into your home, write down what your goals and expectations.  For example, you want to be able to travel with your dog or you want to do agility.  Find a training method that matches up with your goals.  Someone wanting a companion dog will have different training goals verses someone that wants a performance dog.  Find the right trainer and training facility to match those goals.

Requirements to graduate from Puppy Obedience:
1. Heeling on a Loose Leash with an Automatic Sit

2. Sit Stay with a ball bouncing by (and hold the sit stay for 15 minutes)

3. Down Stay for 45 minutes (Read my post on the 30 minute Down-Stay)

4. Stand Stay with exam- 5 minutes
5. Come with an automatic sit in from
6. Don’t eat the Hot Dog!

YEAH!  I did it!!!

There are however simple rules to make tug of war a safe and happy game for all.

Rule #1: Have a release word such as “drop it” to end the game.

Rule #2: The game begins with a release word such as “Ok” or “break.”

Rule #3: The dog is to not have direct contact with you (no teeth to human contact).

Rule #4: Always keep your eye on your dogs body language for any changes in mood.  They should seem happy not aggressive or obsessive.

Want to learn more?  The ASPCA has a a great article on “Teaching Your Dog to Play Tug of War.”

“I am writing to you today because there is a bill before the Virginia General Assembly this session that could provide a very important step toward saving the lives of dogs and could convey a valuable educational message to the public about certain breeds.

The bill is House Bill 429 which, if passed, would clarify that, under Virginia law, pounds and shelters cannot set policies to routinely take the life of every member of any certain breed of dog. It would also prohibit policies that prevent dogs of a certain breed from being made available for adoption. The Richmond SPCA is strongly in support of this bill, and we hope that you will join us in our support by letting your Delegate and Senator know that you support House Bill 429.

How can you help?
House Bill 429 is presently before the House Agriculture, Chesapeake and Natural Resources Committee and it is essential that the bill be reported out of that committee in order for it to be voted upon by the House. Your messages to the members of that Committee to encourage their support of it would be very valuable.

To find contact information for the members of the House Agriculture, Chesapeake and Natural Resources committee so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here.

To find contact information for your Virginia representatives so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here.

Why is passage of House Bill 429 so important?
The primary focus here is the pit bull, which is a breed that has suffered terribly at the hands of criminals who have forced them into animal fighting and its related abuses. Because of this, fears have developed among some people that all pit bulls present a danger, and there are localities that have taken steps to invoke blanket bans on them and to adopt policies that they must all be euthanized and may not be adopted out from shelters. We are of the opinion that this is an irrational reaction to a problem that should be addressed at the source – with tough prosecution of animal fighters. Not by persecution of innocent dogs.

Any breed of dog, whether it be pit bull or poodle, has great individuals and dangerous individuals and lots of dogs in between. They therefore should not be lumped all into one characterization any more than it is a fair thing to do that with regard to large groups of people.

There are many pit bulls that are lovely and well behaved dogs and make wonderful pets. We know this because many pit bulls, like Annabelle pictured in this message, have been lovingly cared for by the Richmond SPCA and placed into permanent, loving homes. It would be shockingly unfair for dogs like Annabelle to be killed as a result of a bias or prejudice against their breed. In addition, many dogs have physical traits that may appear to be similar to a specific breed but, in fact, are not a member of that breed at all. Without a DNA test and using sight alone, we cannot even be certain what dogs are of a particular breed.

It is our hope that House Bill 429 will be passed by the General Assembly this session. The bill is being pursued now because a recent court decision has indicated that such blanket bans and policies requiring the killing of all dogs of a certain breed are permissible under our state law.

We would welcome any help that you might give in letting your Delegate and Senator know that you support House Bill 429. As I mentioned above, if you need assistance finding contact information for your Virginia representatives so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here. To find contact information for the members of the House Agriculture, Chesapeake and Natural Resources committee so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here.

Thank you for taking the time to read this message, and for your wonderful support of programs and policies that improve the lives of orphaned animals.

Sincerely,

Robin Robertson Starr
Chief Executive Officer
Richmond SPCA”

Ok, first off, my human can sew but doesn’t which means anything to protect the furniture must be a no sewing project.  And while I am great at blogging my four paws are not the best when it comes to threading a needle.

I have found that a easy and great way to cover a sofa is to use a queen size fitted sheet.  It covers the arms and stays in place.  Which is very important since my sister Eva, loves to dig and spin before she settles into place.

Also, it is easy to remove and put back on, so when other Humans stop over, you can remove it and your sofa will be waiting fur free for them to sit on.  You can pick a color close to your sofa or live boldly and pick something completely different.

As you can see I am is hard at work guarding her house.  I am usually joined by Pumpkin, our very large orange cat.

Feeling like more crafty than just a plan ol’ sheet?  Check out that post on CraftStyle on How to make a Stylish Sofa Cover

I had set a bottle of my medication on a table. I knew better. I knew to not leave it there but I was going to come back and take it and then put it away. But of course I forgot about it, phone rang, soap was ready, neighbor knocked on the door. Somehow, Buttercup found the bottle and decided to chew on it… of all the other things on the same table she could have picked, that was the thing she picked to chew.

My Husband found the bottle. And then we found Buttercup looking very sad and sick. She then began to vomit.

I called my vet and they said to call Animal Poison Helpline. I then called another vet that we have used. They also gave me a number for Animal Poison Assistance. Both said to call that number and then, if need be, take her to an emergency clinic.

All vets will forward you to a poison control assistance before they see you. Here are the numbers and their fees so you can have those handy if you ever need them, which I hope is never.

Here are the numbers:
* Pet Poison Helpline: 1.800.213.6680
They are 24 hours. The fee is $35.
* ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: 1.800.548.2423
They are 24 hours. The fee is $60.

Signs of Lyme Disease:
Lots of dogs show no signs. The most common sign is stiff legs.

You can easily protect your dog from Lyme Disease:
Transmitted through ticks, Lyme Disease can lead to kidney and liver failure, which may lead to death. The good news is that it is preventable and treatable with regular care.

Tips for prevention:
1.) Use flea, tick and heartworm medication ALL year. It is way too easy in the winter months to think the cold will kill off the ticks, and to try to find a way to save a little money by cutting out a few months a year of medication. Ticks can be found on dogs in mild winters.
2.) Find a tick preventative that kills ticks under 48 hours. It takes over 48 hours for the disease to transfer. If it says repels but not kills, do not use, it will not help protect your dog from ticks.
3.) Ticks don’t just like country living, they can be found in the city too! You can find them in your backyard and parks.
4.) Have your vet do a yearly check for Lyme’s. Ask your vet for a yearly test that combines Heartworm and Lyme’s. If your vet offers these separately for an additional cost, ask them to consider using a test such as the Snap 4DX, which tests for heartworm, ehrichiosis, Lyme, and anaplasmosis. This test should not cost more than the Heartworm test. Testing yearly for Lyme Disease can save your dogs life. By detecting it early there is less likely to a be liver or kidney damage, the causes of death from Lyme Disease.

Please discuss the best option for your dog with your vet.

In loving memory of Oliver

A little about Oliver:
Born January 27, 2004 in Richmond, Va, his background was a humble beginning. His Mother a Pointer Mix was found pregnant on the streets. She was taking in by the wonderful people at AARF. He was adopted by a young women named Erika with no knowledge of dogs on March 15, 2004.

This young women did not come to about Oliver but his brother. Yet, Oliver had other plans. He decided to curl up in this young lady’s lap and fall asleep. It was to be the beginning of a partnership that was a struggle and a learning experience for both involved.

Oliver is best know for stealing food off of the kitchen counter, eating cat food when no one was looking, barking at people that walk by his fence, pulling like hell on the leash, distrusting strangers, snuggling on the bed, being aloof, W-A-L-K-S and best of all running like hell when he was allowed off lead to run free. He nicknames included ” Damn it, Oliver” “Bad Dog,” and “O.” He loved to eat and his favorite food was cat food, peanut butter, cheese, and popcorn. He never would dream that a dogs place was on the floor, he preferred the bed, and if he had to he would sleep on the sofa.

His education background included Basic Obedience, Agility 1 and 2, Tricks, and Dog Aggression Class at the SPCA. He was smarter than anything but refused to use it to please anyone. He loved to learn with food but would look at you like you have lost your mind if you asked him to “Super Fly” (a trick Erika created where he spins and then jumps up to give ten) without treats. His biggest trick though was waiting till we left the room to tip toe to the kitchen to steal food and then freeze like a statue when caught as if being still meant he could no longer be seen.

Although his education background showed merit, his aggression never allowed him to pass the Canine Good Citizen Test. Erika dreamed that together they would pass the test before he passed away. She figured the only way to have a dog with that kind of head strong personality was to going to pass was to try again when he was 12, hopefully by then he would be to old to care. It was something that would have meant a lot to Erika (Oliver would have not cared either way).

According to his handler his greatest accomplishment, outside of being a model for the Pet Premier Harness, was that he helped teacher her love, patience and got her on the right track in a time when she was lost. She early on gave him the name “guardian of the secret” somewhat after a Jackson Pollack but also because that is what he was to her.

Although he was aloof, he was a excellent big brother to Eva. He was especially wonderful when she was a puppy, he would hold toys in his mouth and gently play keep away with her. He also was a very good friend to the many foster dogs we had including a wonderful dog named LuLu that he helped become comfortable in the house.

When speaking about Oliver, Erika says “He was the bane of my existence, and I mean this in the most positive way. By most accounts he was just a dog, and a bad dog at that. A dog that most would have given up on due to his early aggressive behavior and his perpetual head strong determination, but the behavior made him all the more charming and loving. It was a gift to be given the time to work with him. It is times like these that I think of the book The Little Prince and how it is the time you spend with your rose that makes it so important and unique. He was unique in a way that only spending time with him could create. He gave me a greater understanding of myself, and through him, I became a strong more confident person. Some might say he is just a dog but he was so much more. It will be quite around here without him.”

His passing was few minutes passed midnight on December 10, 2008. May he ever run free.

Love you O!

The 30 minute down-stay does a couple of things. First, it establish you as pack leader. Second, it calms your dog down. Third, it comes in very handy when you go places with your dog.

The way to teach this is not rocket science. Have your dog on lead. Put your dog in a down and say “Stay.” You may have to, depending on the age of your dog, use the lead to hold him down by putting your hand or foot on the lead– this is to limit the dogs movement and should NOT be used as correction.

If your dog gets up, you don’t say anything, you just place him back into the down-stay. There is NO correction. Yes, when you start, they will pop up and pop up and pop up. Just calmly, without words, place the dog back into place. Slowly the dog will take longer between pop ups. The dog may not wiggle from side to side but may fall asleep. If they fall asleep, that is a good thing!

When the 30 minutes is up, gently praise your dog with words. If you want to pet them make sure they stay in the down-stay, and do not roll over onto their side or back. Why I am not using food? This is not a food reward exercise, the reward is praise. Release the dog after you praise them using your release word (my word is “Break”).

When you first start doing this you will need to be on the floor with your dog. You will find very soon, even with a puppy, that you will soon be able to get further and further away. You must do it for the whole 30 minutes. Once you have some distance, and have a solid down-stay for 30 minutes, come back closer in and begin to add distractions like a ball rolling by.

Practice your 30 minute down-stay every single day.

Some trainers and dog handlers do not like the 30 minute down-stay. You need to pick the method that works best for you and your dog. Some think 30 minutes is too long and that you will never use this. Some even have told me 30 minutes is cruel. That is for your to decide. I have never yelled, harmed, or injured my dog while doing this. I have seen Buttercup look at me, like “are we done yet because I REALLY want to play,” and I guess you can call that cruel, especially when I was rolling a ball past her.

You will use this more than you realize. You will use this when you have guests over that are not fans of dogs, or while you are eating dinner. You will use this when you take your dog to the mall while you drink your coffee. You will use this when you open your front door so your dog does not bolt out in to traffic. Not all of those are 30 minutes but it creates a good strong foundation, that is not based on food rewards but based on your relationship with your dog.

If you prefer to teach the down-stay with food, I will present you a short version of how to train a down-stay with the food method. You lure your dog into a dog, if they do not know down already. Stand in front of them and treat. Release dog. Repeat. Begin adding a small amount of time as you see the dog begin to easily stay in position. You do NOT want the dog to get up, so your rate of reinforcement with food needs to be constant and fast as you start to teach this. Once you have repeated several times with increased time begin to add distance, say a foot or two. Take a step back, step back in and feed. When working on distance, don’t work on time. When working on time, don’t work on distance. Eventually distance and time will meet. Once you have time, add distractions. You will not work up to 30 minutes using this method. Using this method, you will work up to 5 minutes.

Next on “Training Tips” we we discuss training your dog to heel using the clicker method and back chaining– no real chains are involved, it is a method where you start where you are and work backwards to get the behavior you desire.

(Please always discuss with a licensed Dog trainer and use common sense.)