Born to Run

Adventures, Articles, Brice, Training Tips

Born to Run

No Comments 27 May 2010

Ok, OK, I complain a lot about my human and her desire to attempt to run.  I think it is more because she just doesn’t get it.  She runs and it is in a straight line with some kind of agenda– make time, only have so much time, lose weight, get in shape.  For me, I run to expreince life, to take in its smells, to just feel joy.  We are on different pages.  Just as she trains me, I hope that I can help her see the joy in just running.


(Click on the photo to enlarge so you can see my happy face!)

I love to follow my big sister Eva around.  Below we are running at Dolly Sods, part of the Monongahela National Forest.

See the Joy!

We stop to get water along the way.

Before my Human lets me off lead, she likes to review basic commands.

(She needs to loosen up that leash a little bit to make sure there is a J.  Training Humans takes time, sigh.)

All this running around leaves me pretty tired.  I am already not a morning pup.  See how sleepy I look.  So tired.  Don’t worry I was able to get right up after my morning cup of joe (ok, it was water and a bathroom break).

I know I know I am a small pup.  I will tell you that I was running long after my big sister Eva tired out.  My size does mean my Human has to take certain precautions.  And the good news is that if I get tired, I am pretty easy to pick up and carry.

Things to consider before hiking or running with your dog:
1. Size and coat of dog. A really small dog, like myself, or a really big dog might not make the best running companion. A long haired coat might not be good in the middle of the summer.
2. Physical abilities such as injuries, and energy level.
3. Physical endurance. You don’t want to take an out of shape dog on a 5 mile run, start slow and build endurance and ability. This will also help you figure out if your dog has limitations.
4. The personality of your dog such as energy level, ability to be off lead or run next to you on lead with out cutting in front of you, and reaction to new situations.

After taking into consideration the above points, create the length and difficulty of the hike or run based on your dogs abilities and personality.

When hiking and running keep your eye out for glass and other items that might injury our paws. One of the most common injuries happens to your dogs pads. Try our Doggie Sage Hot Dog Balm on our pads before you go out and when you return to soften and heal those paws.

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Want to read and learn more about running with your dog? Check out the following links:
Train with Your Dog
Running and Jogging with Your Dog
Running with Your Best Friend

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Swimming with Dogs

Adventures, Buttercup, Eva, Training Tips

Swimming with Dogs

1 Comment 06 May 2010

Being 10 pounds I have to admit, I am not to fond of the water. I have been swimming one time, and that was against my will. My Humans took me to the James River, to an area that is an off shoot of the river, so it is not deep or fast moving. Brice, Eva and Jasper (the dogs) were all playing and swimming in the water. Then my humans began swimming around. I was all alone on the shore. So I slowly got my paws wet. Then my Human coaxed me out to the water and slowly I moved a little bit deeper and deeper till I had to paddle around. I did swim while my human had their hands spotting me the whole time!

A few weeks ago, on my own, I got my paws wet. But once it got to my belly, I just did not get the point.

However, my big sister Eva LOVES to swim! As soon as she sees water she dives right in.

You can see her paddling around in the background behind Oliver in the picture below.

The James River is Beautiful.

Do you have a dog that wants to learn how to swim?  Below are a few tips to help your dog swim.

Dogs already know how to swim, we just have to get them to realize this without pushing them, or making them scared of the water.

1.  If you aren’t in the water more than likely your dog will not be going in either.   Get in the water and play around.

2.  Start in wading waters while letting the dog get used to having their feet and belly wet.  Slowly move into deeper waters.

3.  Use lures, such as a toy or food, to help a dog that isn’t sure become more comfortable and confident.

4.  Peer Pressure. Bring other dogs along that are already know how to swim, and who are happy and comfortable with the water.

5. Think safety first.  Make sure you are in an area that is safe and secure.  Teaching your dog to swim in fast moving river water might not be safe for a first time swimmer.  Consider the size and build of your dog when deciding on where to swim.

6. Stay Positive!  Do not punish your dog if they are unwilling to get in the water.  The more positive you are, and the more fun you are having, the more likely your dog will be willing to make the choice to take the plunge and start paddling.

7. Make sure your dog is making the choice to get in the water.  If you throw your dog in the waters most likely your dog will not want to go back in on their own.

Post a comment to share your favorite place to swim with your dog, how you taught your dog to swim, or any other fun dog swimming story.

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Graduation from Puppy Obedience

Adventures, Buttercup, Training Tips

Graduation from Puppy Obedience

No Comments 18 March 2010

Last Year on St. Patty’s Day I graduated from Puppy Obedience School at Dog Lovers Obedience School.

In order to graduate, I had to work pretty darn hard and learn a whole lot of self control.

My Human chose Dog Lovers Obedience School because it was not food based.  She had experience with food and clicker training and due to my size thought it might be best to learn a new method.  When picking a training class, find out about the method of teaching and if that is going to be a good match with your dog’s personality and the human’s personality.  If you are uncertain ask if you can sit in on a class without your dog.

Before training or bringing a dog into your home, write down what your goals and expectations.  For example, you want to be able to travel with your dog or you want to do agility.  Find a training method that matches up with your goals.  Someone wanting a companion dog will have different training goals verses someone that wants a performance dog.  Find the right trainer and training facility to match those goals.

Requirements to graduate from Puppy Obedience:
1. Heeling on a Loose Leash with an Automatic Sit

2. Sit Stay with a ball bouncing by (and hold the sit stay for 15 minutes)

3. Down Stay for 45 minutes (Read my post on the 30 minute Down-Stay)

4. Stand Stay with exam- 5 minutes
5. Come with an automatic sit in from
6. Don’t eat the Hot Dog!

YEAH!  I did it!!!

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Playing Tug of War with your Dog

Adventures, Buttercup, Eva, Training Tips

Playing Tug of War with your Dog

No Comments 01 March 2010

Tug of War is a fun game that all my dogs love to play. It is great to use just for fun, to build drive, and to help the dog learn to follow your body movement.

There are however simple rules to make tug of war a safe and happy game for all.

Rule #1: Have a release word such as “drop it” to end the game.

Rule #2: The game begins with a release word such as “Ok” or “break.”

Rule #3: The dog is to not have direct contact with you (no teeth to human contact).

Rule #4: Always keep your eye on your dogs body language for any changes in mood.  They should seem happy not aggressive or obsessive.

Want to learn more?  The ASPCA has a a great article on “Teaching Your Dog to Play Tug of War.”

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Richmond SPCA wants support to end breed specific euthanasia

Dog Advocacy

Richmond SPCA wants support to end breed specific euthanasia

No Comments 29 January 2010

The Following is a letter sent out by the Richmond SPCA. I am posting the letter since it is written so well to explain the importance of House Hill 429 which would help saves lives of dogs, especially pit bulls and other breeds considered bully breeds.  Also you will see the embedded video from Nbc12 about the bill.  You can read the NBC12 article here.

“I am writing to you today because there is a bill before the Virginia General Assembly this session that could provide a very important step toward saving the lives of dogs and could convey a valuable educational message to the public about certain breeds.

The bill is House Bill 429 which, if passed, would clarify that, under Virginia law, pounds and shelters cannot set policies to routinely take the life of every member of any certain breed of dog. It would also prohibit policies that prevent dogs of a certain breed from being made available for adoption. The Richmond SPCA is strongly in support of this bill, and we hope that you will join us in our support by letting your Delegate and Senator know that you support House Bill 429.

How can you help?
House Bill 429 is presently before the House Agriculture, Chesapeake and Natural Resources Committee and it is essential that the bill be reported out of that committee in order for it to be voted upon by the House. Your messages to the members of that Committee to encourage their support of it would be very valuable.

To find contact information for the members of the House Agriculture, Chesapeake and Natural Resources committee so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here.

To find contact information for your Virginia representatives so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here.

Why is passage of House Bill 429 so important?
The primary focus here is the pit bull, which is a breed that has suffered terribly at the hands of criminals who have forced them into animal fighting and its related abuses. Because of this, fears have developed among some people that all pit bulls present a danger, and there are localities that have taken steps to invoke blanket bans on them and to adopt policies that they must all be euthanized and may not be adopted out from shelters. We are of the opinion that this is an irrational reaction to a problem that should be addressed at the source – with tough prosecution of animal fighters. Not by persecution of innocent dogs.

Any breed of dog, whether it be pit bull or poodle, has great individuals and dangerous individuals and lots of dogs in between. They therefore should not be lumped all into one characterization any more than it is a fair thing to do that with regard to large groups of people.

There are many pit bulls that are lovely and well behaved dogs and make wonderful pets. We know this because many pit bulls, like Annabelle pictured in this message, have been lovingly cared for by the Richmond SPCA and placed into permanent, loving homes. It would be shockingly unfair for dogs like Annabelle to be killed as a result of a bias or prejudice against their breed. In addition, many dogs have physical traits that may appear to be similar to a specific breed but, in fact, are not a member of that breed at all. Without a DNA test and using sight alone, we cannot even be certain what dogs are of a particular breed.

It is our hope that House Bill 429 will be passed by the General Assembly this session. The bill is being pursued now because a recent court decision has indicated that such blanket bans and policies requiring the killing of all dogs of a certain breed are permissible under our state law.

We would welcome any help that you might give in letting your Delegate and Senator know that you support House Bill 429. As I mentioned above, if you need assistance finding contact information for your Virginia representatives so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here. To find contact information for the members of the House Agriculture, Chesapeake and Natural Resources committee so that you may send them a message supporting House Bill 429, please click here.

Thank you for taking the time to read this message, and for your wonderful support of programs and policies that improve the lives of orphaned animals.

Sincerely,

Robin Robertson Starr
Chief Executive Officer
Richmond SPCA”

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Easy Sofa Cover to Protect against Your Furry Pals

Adventures, Household Tips

Easy Sofa Cover to Protect against Your Furry Pals

No Comments 27 January 2010

If your house is anything like mine, we animals LOVE to be on the sofa.  Sheets or other covers are great but they tend to slip off, plus they don’t cover the sides where the cats like to claw.

Ok, first off, my human can sew but doesn’t which means anything to protect the furniture must be a no sewing project.  And while I am great at blogging my four paws are not the best when it comes to threading a needle.

I have found that a easy and great way to cover a sofa is to use a queen size fitted sheet.  It covers the arms and stays in place.  Which is very important since my sister Eva, loves to dig and spin before she settles into place.

Also, it is easy to remove and put back on, so when other Humans stop over, you can remove it and your sofa will be waiting fur free for them to sit on.  You can pick a color close to your sofa or live boldly and pick something completely different.

As you can see I am is hard at work guarding her house.  I am usually joined by Pumpkin, our very large orange cat.

Feeling like more crafty than just a plan ol’ sheet?  Check out that post on CraftStyle on How to make a Stylish Sofa Cover

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Pet Poison Assistance

Health & Safety

Pet Poison Assistance

No Comments 25 November 2009

Princess Buttercup got herself into quite a mess today, and unfortunately not the usual “I stole my Human’s shoes” or “how muddy can I get before the Human stops me?”

I had set a bottle of my medication on a table. I knew better. I knew to not leave it there but I was going to come back and take it and then put it away. But of course I forgot about it, phone rang, soap was ready, neighbor knocked on the door. Somehow, Buttercup found the bottle and decided to chew on it… of all the other things on the same table she could have picked, that was the thing she picked to chew.

My Husband found the bottle. And then we found Buttercup looking very sad and sick. She then began to vomit.

I called my vet and they said to call Animal Poison Helpline. I then called another vet that we have used. They also gave me a number for Animal Poison Assistance. Both said to call that number and then, if need be, take her to an emergency clinic.

All vets will forward you to a poison control assistance before they see you. Here are the numbers and their fees so you can have those handy if you ever need them, which I hope is never.

Here are the numbers:
* Pet Poison Helpline: 1.800.213.6680
They are 24 hours. The fee is $35.
* ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: 1.800.548.2423
They are 24 hours. The fee is $60.

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Health & Safety

Lyme Disease

No Comments 06 November 2009


Last year around this time my dog Oliver was diagnosed with Lyme Disease. It seemed very unlikely that he would get sick or even die from it, since most dogs do not become terminal. Unfortunately, he had been misdiagnosed 5 months earlier and treated not for Lyme’s but for general infection. So by the time October rolled around, he didn’t just have Lyme Disease but liver and kidney failure. He was such a strong dog that it was not apparent how sick he was till he was too ill to eat. Oliver is a rare case for something that can be completely prevented. Then the second blow came when my dog Eva, in the Spring, was diagnosed through a yearly test with Lyme’s. She was treated early and had no liver or kidney damage. This shows the importance of early and regular testing.

Signs of Lyme Disease:
Lots of dogs show no signs. The most common sign is stiff legs.

You can easily protect your dog from Lyme Disease:
Transmitted through ticks, Lyme Disease can lead to kidney and liver failure, which may lead to death. The good news is that it is preventable and treatable with regular care.

Tips for prevention:
1.) Use flea, tick and heartworm medication ALL year. It is way too easy in the winter months to think the cold will kill off the ticks, and to try to find a way to save a little money by cutting out a few months a year of medication. Ticks can be found on dogs in mild winters.
2.) Find a tick preventative that kills ticks under 48 hours. It takes over 48 hours for the disease to transfer. If it says repels but not kills, do not use, it will not help protect your dog from ticks.
3.) Ticks don’t just like country living, they can be found in the city too! You can find them in your backyard and parks.
4.) Have your vet do a yearly check for Lyme’s. Ask your vet for a yearly test that combines Heartworm and Lyme’s. If your vet offers these separately for an additional cost, ask them to consider using a test such as the Snap 4DX, which tests for heartworm, ehrichiosis, Lyme, and anaplasmosis. This test should not cost more than the Heartworm test. Testing yearly for Lyme Disease can save your dogs life. By detecting it early there is less likely to a be liver or kidney damage, the causes of death from Lyme Disease.

Please discuss the best option for your dog with your vet.

In loving memory of Oliver


A little about Oliver:
Born January 27, 2004 in Richmond, Va, his background was a humble beginning. His Mother a Pointer Mix was found pregnant on the streets. She was taking in by the wonderful people at AARF. He was adopted by a young women named Erika with no knowledge of dogs on March 15, 2004.

This young women did not come to about Oliver but his brother. Yet, Oliver had other plans. He decided to curl up in this young lady’s lap and fall asleep. It was to be the beginning of a partnership that was a struggle and a learning experience for both involved.

Oliver is best know for stealing food off of the kitchen counter, eating cat food when no one was looking, barking at people that walk by his fence, pulling like hell on the leash, distrusting strangers, snuggling on the bed, being aloof, W-A-L-K-S and best of all running like hell when he was allowed off lead to run free. He nicknames included ” Damn it, Oliver” “Bad Dog,” and “O.” He loved to eat and his favorite food was cat food, peanut butter, cheese, and popcorn. He never would dream that a dogs place was on the floor, he preferred the bed, and if he had to he would sleep on the sofa.

His education background included Basic Obedience, Agility 1 and 2, Tricks, and Dog Aggression Class at the SPCA. He was smarter than anything but refused to use it to please anyone. He loved to learn with food but would look at you like you have lost your mind if you asked him to “Super Fly” (a trick Erika created where he spins and then jumps up to give ten) without treats. His biggest trick though was waiting till we left the room to tip toe to the kitchen to steal food and then freeze like a statue when caught as if being still meant he could no longer be seen.

Although his education background showed merit, his aggression never allowed him to pass the Canine Good Citizen Test. Erika dreamed that together they would pass the test before he passed away. She figured the only way to have a dog with that kind of head strong personality was to going to pass was to try again when he was 12, hopefully by then he would be to old to care. It was something that would have meant a lot to Erika (Oliver would have not cared either way).

According to his handler his greatest accomplishment, outside of being a model for the Pet Premier Harness, was that he helped teacher her love, patience and got her on the right track in a time when she was lost. She early on gave him the name “guardian of the secret” somewhat after a Jackson Pollack but also because that is what he was to her.

Although he was aloof, he was a excellent big brother to Eva. He was especially wonderful when she was a puppy, he would hold toys in his mouth and gently play keep away with her. He also was a very good friend to the many foster dogs we had including a wonderful dog named LuLu that he helped become comfortable in the house.

When speaking about Oliver, Erika says “He was the bane of my existence, and I mean this in the most positive way. By most accounts he was just a dog, and a bad dog at that. A dog that most would have given up on due to his early aggressive behavior and his perpetual head strong determination, but the behavior made him all the more charming and loving. It was a gift to be given the time to work with him. It is times like these that I think of the book The Little Prince and how it is the time you spend with your rose that makes it so important and unique. He was unique in a way that only spending time with him could create. He gave me a greater understanding of myself, and through him, I became a strong more confident person. Some might say he is just a dog but he was so much more. It will be quite around here without him.”

His passing was few minutes passed midnight on December 10, 2008. May he ever run free.

Love you O!

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Training Tips

30 minute Down-Stay

No Comments 28 September 2009

The 30 minute down-stay is one of the most valuable things I have ever taught a dog, the most boring, but the most helpful. To me, this is the foundation for a good family pet.

The 30 minute down-stay does a couple of things. First, it establish you as pack leader. Second, it calms your dog down. Third, it comes in very handy when you go places with your dog.

The way to teach this is not rocket science. Have your dog on lead. Put your dog in a down and say “Stay.” You may have to, depending on the age of your dog, use the lead to hold him down by putting your hand or foot on the lead– this is to limit the dogs movement and should NOT be used as correction.

If your dog gets up, you don’t say anything, you just place him back into the down-stay. There is NO correction. Yes, when you start, they will pop up and pop up and pop up. Just calmly, without words, place the dog back into place. Slowly the dog will take longer between pop ups. The dog may not wiggle from side to side but may fall asleep. If they fall asleep, that is a good thing!

When the 30 minutes is up, gently praise your dog with words. If you want to pet them make sure they stay in the down-stay, and do not roll over onto their side or back. Why I am not using food? This is not a food reward exercise, the reward is praise. Release the dog after you praise them using your release word (my word is “Break”).

When you first start doing this you will need to be on the floor with your dog. You will find very soon, even with a puppy, that you will soon be able to get further and further away. You must do it for the whole 30 minutes. Once you have some distance, and have a solid down-stay for 30 minutes, come back closer in and begin to add distractions like a ball rolling by.

Practice your 30 minute down-stay every single day.

Some trainers and dog handlers do not like the 30 minute down-stay. You need to pick the method that works best for you and your dog. Some think 30 minutes is too long and that you will never use this. Some even have told me 30 minutes is cruel. That is for your to decide. I have never yelled, harmed, or injured my dog while doing this. I have seen Buttercup look at me, like “are we done yet because I REALLY want to play,” and I guess you can call that cruel, especially when I was rolling a ball past her.

You will use this more than you realize. You will use this when you have guests over that are not fans of dogs, or while you are eating dinner. You will use this when you take your dog to the mall while you drink your coffee. You will use this when you open your front door so your dog does not bolt out in to traffic. Not all of those are 30 minutes but it creates a good strong foundation, that is not based on food rewards but based on your relationship with your dog.

If you prefer to teach the down-stay with food, I will present you a short version of how to train a down-stay with the food method. You lure your dog into a dog, if they do not know down already. Stand in front of them and treat. Release dog. Repeat. Begin adding a small amount of time as you see the dog begin to easily stay in position. You do NOT want the dog to get up, so your rate of reinforcement with food needs to be constant and fast as you start to teach this. Once you have repeated several times with increased time begin to add distance, say a foot or two. Take a step back, step back in and feed. When working on distance, don’t work on time. When working on time, don’t work on distance. Eventually distance and time will meet. Once you have time, add distractions. You will not work up to 30 minutes using this method. Using this method, you will work up to 5 minutes.

Next on “Training Tips” we we discuss training your dog to heel using the clicker method and back chaining– no real chains are involved, it is a method where you start where you are and work backwards to get the behavior you desire.

(Please always discuss with a licensed Dog trainer and use common sense.)

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Training Tips

In the beginning, there was dog training….

No Comments 23 September 2009

When you decided to bring a dog into your home, we usually think about the obvious– things like food, shelter, and affection. Most of us tend to over look one of the most important things you can do to have a wonderful dog– training.

I can not tell you how many people when they see Buttercup, they go on and on about how their dog could never behave like that. And maybe they are right, my first dog, Oliver, was no walk on the beach (we will get into him later). But I do think that you can have a wonderful dog with a few simple steps.

In the following entries I will share some of the lessons I have learned over the course of the past 5 years since I first laid eyes on Oliver. I will go over my journey to create a dog I wanted to live with, including both how I train and how I have been trained. Some stories have a happy ending, some are about perseverance and what it means to really love. It will include various training methods and concepts.

I will start here with three concepts that are the foundation of my training philosophy:

1. Create a Plan: Dream the about the Dog you will Create– revisit this idea often.
Yes, that is right, the dog you will create (within reason of course). Most dogs, can and want to be “good dogs.” You as the human have the responsibility to train them to be able to live and share the human world. We expect a lot from our dogs — and reading our mind seems to be the number one thing we think they should instinctively do. While dogs seems to have a natural ability for figuring out our words, body language, and seem to have an amazing ability to forgive us repeatedly for having no clue what they are trying to communicate to us. But despite what we seem to think, they do not get the rules of the human world though osmosis.

To achieve the dog you dream, write down a few sentences on why you want a dog, and what you want your dog to be able to do. This is important for many reasons. This will let you know what you need to train for and it will let you know what type of dog you will want to have in your home.
If you already have a dog, it will give a good place to restart your relationship. I would add habits your dog currently has that you want to replace with other habits.
I revisit this list often.

By jotting down your desires for your dog will help you match up your training style and desires with the various methods.

2. You are the source of Food
When the food bowl hits the floor, it does not mean time to eat, it means “Look at me.” Yes, that is right, your dog will not go for the food bowl till you give a release word. I use the word “Break” because it is not commonly used in everyday conversation like the word “OK” is. I will describe later how to train for this, but it is pretty simple concept that will translate to other training areas.


3. 30 minute down stay
I was in a training class a while back and the trainer wanted me to use food for her stays. I told her that we don’t use food for stays. She was not happy with me. There are two morals to this story. One, use the training method that you feel comfortable with and where you feel you see results. Your dog will sense if you are uncomfortable and react. Two, with that said, I recommend not using food for training the long down stays, short stays are fine. The reason I don’t use food is that you want your dog to listen and respond to your praise. Some people feel uncomfortable with this, and like I stated, pick the method that works for you. The 30 minute down-stay does a couple of things. First, it establish you as pack leader. Second, it calms your dog down. Third, it comes in very handy when you go places with your dog. I will discuss how to train for this in a future entry.

(Please always discuss with a licensed Dog trainer and use common sense.)

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Fireworks and Dogs

Health & Safety

Fireworks and Dogs

No Comments 04 July 2009

A Doggie Service Message from Princess Buttercup.


While you and your family are celebrating the 4th of July, your dog may be feeling like having a nervous breakdown. Some dogs have a sensitivity, fear and possibly terror to the sounds of fireworks and it is wise to take precautions for (wo)Man’s best friend.
1. Keep all animals securely indoors. Do NOT leave dogs unattended in the backyard during the fireworks. Dogs can become frightened and try to escape yard.
2. Make sure that all animals are properly identified just in case, while scared, they manage to get out of the house.
3. Do NOT take a dog to see the Fireworks display with you and your family.
4. Do NOT have dog outside while family lights fireworks. Some dogs are not scared of the sound but may think the lights flying everywhere would be fun to chase.
5. If your dog has a fear of fireworks, try giving them Rescue Remedy. This blend of flower essences helps to calm your dog.
6. If you know that your dog has extreme anxiety about fireworks, consult your vet before the 4th of July. She may prescribe medication that will help calm your dog.
7. Dogs do like Hot Dogs, they are very very yummy. Please give us some, it will make us happy. But do be careful some food will make out tummies ache and some things like raisins are deadly for dogs. Please keep food out of our reach because we don’t know what is good for us and what is not. But Hot Dogs are very good for us so please share!

I hope you and your family have a wonderful 4th of July.
God Bless America.
~Princess Buttercup

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